Dynotune Wet Nitrous Kit

Here are some pictures of the used Dynotune wet nitrous kit that I purchased recently. The kit included a 10 lb bottle, bottle brackets, fuel and nitrous solenoids, fuel and nitrous hoses, a blowdown tube, 50, 75, 100, 150, & 200 HP jets, and some wiring & switches. I also got a Dynotune RPM window switch with integral WOT switch and any gear lockout, Dynotune fuel pressure safety switch, Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet throttle body nitrous plate, and a NOS purge kit. I also purchased a nitrous filter, a nitrous pressure gauge, a Dynotune bottle heater kit, and a set of NGK TR6 spark plugs.

Nitrous Kit























Here are some pictures of the installation and descriptions.

Bottle, Bottle Mount, & Bottle Heater

I decided that I wanted the bottle to be located within reaching distance of the driver seat so that I could turn the bottle on when needed and so I could see the bottle pressure and I did not want to pay for a remote bottle opener and electric pressure gauge. Mounting the bottle between the rear seats is pretty much the only location that fit my criteria, so that's where I put it. I used scrap wood to make a bottle mount that would fit between the rear seats, and then covered it with some scrap cloth that I had. I used a piece of particle board that was ~6"x10" for the main bottle mount, and attached a short piece of 2"x4" under the front of the mount so that the bottle would be elevated at the appropriate angle (~15°). I drilled holes through the floorboard and attached the bottle to the body with 3/8" bolts.





I made a hole for the blowdown tube and attempted to keep it tucked in next to the seat as much as possible.



I wanted to be able to have the bottle heater running without having the nitrous line charged all the way to the solenoid, so I attached the pressure switch and pressure gauge to the bottle connection. I used TFE paste to seal the connections. I positioned the pressure gauge so that I could get the best view of it from the driver seat. I used a 2 wire trailer plug connector on the wiring to the pressure switch so that it could easily and quickly be disconnected when refilling the bottle.





Update

When I went to get the bottle filled, I told the shop that I had just reconfigured the piping on the bottle, and to please check for leaks by putting in just a little nitrous before filling it completely so that I don't have to pay for a bunch of nitrous if it were to leak out immediately. So of course, what happens? That's right, the shop puts 10 lbs of nitrous into the bottle without checking for leaks and then they call and tell me that it is leaking, so I am currently losing a whole 10 lb refill of nitrous and of course, I have to pay for it :-( . They tell me that it's leaking at the pressure gauge and that they can sell me a new gauge ($$$$$) or remove the gauge and plug the hole. I tell them to just plug it, and again I tell them to please check for leaks by putting in just a little nitrous before filling it completely so that I don't have to pay for a bunch MORE nitrous if it were to leak out immediately again. So the shop calls and tells me that the bottle is filled and I can come pick it up again. When they hand the bottle to me, I hear a slight hissing sound. So of course, what happened again? That's right, it was leaking again!!!! By this time I was highly displeased that I had to pay for two 10 lb refills and would have little or nothing to show for it. The shop did attempt to tighten the fittings a little bit, but it made no difference on the leak. So I went home quickly and used the bottle that afternoon to do testing on the system. The pressure was leaking out slowly, so I did manage to get to run the system a few times and make sure it all worked before all of the nitrous leaked out.
After all of the nitrous had leaked out, I disconnected the bottle piping, and reconfigured it so that only the pressure switch was connected to the bottle. I used Teflon paste and let it harden for a couple of days. Then I used an air compressor to put some pressure (~100 psi) into the nitrous bottle to check for leaks. The switch had a slight leak again, so I resorted to using Teflon tape to seal the pressure switch. I know that pretty much everyone says that you should never use Teflon tape on a nitrous system, but it was the only thing that would work, so I used it very carefully, making sure to avoid getting any into the inside of the bottle. Again I used an air compressor to put some pressure (~100 psi) into the bottle, and it did not leak.
So I took the bottle to the same shop again to have it refilled. (It's the only place in town that refills nitrous, so I don't have much choice.........). They filled it, and thankfully this time there were no leaks. I added the pressure gauge in the main feed line from the bottle to the tank. It only reads the pressure when the bottle valve is open, but the heater switch is directly on the bottle so I can use the heater with the bottle closed.





I ran the heater wiring separate from the nitrous activitation line so that the bottle could heat up without having the system armed. I placed the switch near the bottle because I did not have any additional space with my other switches in the ashtray. I made the switch bracket from a scrap piece of metal that was left over from my transmission cooler installation. I taped all of the wiring so that it looked less messy.















Nitrous Line

I routed the nitrous line from the bottle, through the center console, through the floorboard near the shifter, beside the transmission, and then up to the solenoids. I used several zipties to ensure that it stays as far as possible from moving objects and/or items that will be hot.











Nitrous, Purge, & Fuel Solenoids

I played around with the locations of the solenoids for a while, and the best location that I found was to attach them to the front passenger side bolt of the intake manifold. I used an existing bracket that came with the system, and i modified it slightly so that I could mount both the nitrous and fuel solenoids to it. I wanted the purge to be routed to a location where I could easily see it but where it was not directly obstructing the view ahead of me. Since the solenoids were located on the passenger side, the best and shortest/easiest location was the passenger cowl area on the back side of the hood. I rebent the existing purge to route it where I wanted, and then cut off the excess. I also have heard people that have had problems with water getting into the purge line, so I decided to put a vacuum cap over the line when I am not using the system.











Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet Plate

When looking for a nitrous system, I was very interested in getting a plate kit because they had a very clean installation and it seems like a plate would provide the most even distribution of fuel and nitrous to all cylinders. The price of the plates were a little expensive, but I ran across a plate kit at a good price, so I decided to get it. I am very pleased with the construction of this plate, and it came with everything needed for installation (throttle cable bracket extension and longer throttle body bolts).











Window Switch & Wiring

I collected wiring diagrams from various places, and hybridized them to fit what components I was using and how I wanted to wire everything. The final wiring diagram is below. The window switch was configured using these instructions. For the TPS and tach signals, I connected to the wires at the PCM. For my 2000 WS6, the TPS signal is pin #24 (dark blue) on the red connector and the tach signal is pin #10 (white) on the red connector. Wiring connectors for other applications may vary so be sure to check the factory diagram before splicing wires.







NGK TR6 Spark Plugs

Based on the recommendations of most every post that I found on LS1Tech, I installed a set of NGK TR6 spark plugs gapped at 0.035" for use with the nitrous system. I followed the instructions at Install Unversity for the spark plug installation. There were no major issues and as stated the #8 spark plug was difficult to replace. Instead of using a swivel extension, I used a 1" extension and was able to remove the plug.







Dynotune Nitrous Bottle Blanket

I recently got a Dynotune nitrous bottle blanket to help keep the bottle pressure consistent, along with the bottle heater. It also makes everything look a bit nicer/cleaner too.










Dynotune AFR Lean Shut-Down Switch

I recently got a Dynotune AFR lean shut-down switch. I decided that I would wire it into the nitrous wiring so that it was only active when the nitrous system was armed. I located it in the glovebox because I don't plan on using it as the primary method for watching the AFR (I use HPTuners for that). I wired it according to the directions that were included with it, and it was really simple to hook up.











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