13g Turbo Swap

Pics of Turbos

Turbo Swap

EGR Blockoff Plates

Front EGT Probe Tap

13g Turbos

The following pics are of the used 13g turbos that I purchased. The front turbo had damaged fins on the compressor wheel. The wheel was replaced and the turbo was rebuilt by GT PRO.

Damaged Turbo

Good Turbo

Both Turbos

Other Pics

Turbo Swap

Here are some pics and some of my suggestions for a turbo swap (applies to any TD04 direct replacement turbos). I primarily used the Turbo Swap Guide by Errin Humphrey. I will not reprint the info from that web page, but I will include any relevant notes or important differences from that guide, based on my experience.
(Please note that I did find this guide very helpful, and any additional comments I have are only intended to be additional help to others, and in no way are intended to be negative criticism.)

I used the parts list to order the parts that I felt necessary. (Having the necessary replacement parts on hand is important for making things go smoothly.) I ordered and used most everything on the list with the exceptions of: front and rear oil return lines, A/C line o-ring, and plenum manifold bolts. Definitely order extra coolant line gaskets (MF660064).

I did not go through the preiminary removal steps in order, and I started right in on getting to the front turbo.
For the preliminary steps, I did not find it necessary to:

drain the engine oil (almost no oil in the oil feed and return lines - oil changed after new turbos primed and oil circulated through system)
remove exhaust system (only downpipe and precats removed)
remove air filter, MAF sensor, and intake hose that connects to MAF sensor (removing the hoses that went to inlet of each turbo were sufficient)
battery, battery tray and windshield washer reservoir
remove throttle body (intake plenum was removed by unbolting from throttle body)

Notes and changes for front turbo:

upper (exhaust manifold) heat shield stays on the vehicle but flexes to allow access to necessary parts
heat is very helpful for removing stuck bolts (worth the investment for some type of torch)
o2 housing did not have enough clearance to get it off the turbo studs, so it was separated when the turbo was removed
carefully watch the coolant and oil feed/return lines to make sure not to damage them when removing turbo

For the front turbo, I did not find it necessary to:

disconnect the front o2 sensor (laid it on the frame)
remove front cam gear cover

Notes and changes for rear turbo:

Plenum removal may not have been necessary, but it did gain additional room for access to the rear turbo, and it was a good opportunity to block off the EGR system
For removal of the rear heat shield after it has been unbolted, I slid the shield toward the passenger side of the vehicle until it was as far as possible behind the coolant eye bolt. Then I lifted the drive side of the shield upward, and continued to slide the shield toward the passenger side of the vehicle (slightly rotating the shield). That was continued until the driver side of the shield was clear of the firewall and turbo, and it was removed.
heat is very helpful for removing stuck bolts (worth the investment for some type of torch)

For the rear turbo, I did not find it necessary to:

remove clutch booster vacuum hose
"take off shoes; climb up on top of engine; reach way down with right arm; grab lowest edge of heat shield; give repeated violent upward yanks until heat shield comes out" - see note above for *slightly* easier method that worked for me
unbolt oil return line from turbo while on vehicle (the oil return line was left attached to the turbo during removal with the whole assembly being carefully twisted and turned to gain clearance, and then lifted out of the vehicle)