Blitz Dual Solenoid Boost Controller (DSBC)
Here are some pics of the Blitz Dual Solenoid Boost Controller (DSBC). This is the original style, but the newer ones work using the same style control and solenoid, but with a slightly different appearance of the head unit.
Background
After having very odd boost problems where boost would fall off, and act erratically, I created an intake pressure tester, and checked for leaks. After finding a few small leaks, I drove the car again, but the problem was not solved. So next I disassembled the mbc, and determined that it was not working correctly. Specifically, it appeared that the ball and spring would not move freely. I attempted to oil it, but that did not help. So I decided that I'd had enough of the cheap boost control (aka having to go under the hood to change the boost), so I decided to look for an electronic boost controller. One very helpful reference for comparision is John Monnin's Boost Controller Comparison
References
For installation, I referred to John Adams DSBC Installation, Roger Gerl's DSBC Installation Procedure and Roger Gerl's DSBC User's Manual (VERY HELPFUL).
Controller Unit
I installed the controller unit on top of the steering column, and cut a small notch on the back part of the column to allow room for the wires and vacuum hose to be routed.
Solenoid Unit
I mounted the solenoid unit on the firewall, where the factory solenoids used to be located before I did the vacuum reduction. This allowed for the shortest amount of vacuum hose to be used overall while still having a solid mounting location that I could find.
Connections
Installation is fairly straightforward as there are only 3 vacuum lines to run, and 4 wires.
Vacuum Lines
- One vacuum line goes from the nipple on the y-pipe to the "IN" port on the solenoid.
- The second vacuum line goes from the "OUT" port on the solenoid to the wastegates. When I did the vacuum line reduction, I made the hoses to both wastegates equal length, and so I used that existing hose, and ran the hose from the "OUT" port of the solenoid to that tee.
- The third vacuum line connects from an intake pressure source directly to the control unit. I used a tee to tap into the 1/8" tubing that was already inside of the cabin for my Autometer Phantom boost gauge.
Wires
- The black wire is hooked to a ground source. I used the ring terminal and connected it to a stud that was just above the driver's footrest.
- The red wire goes to a 12 volt source that is powered when the ignition is in the on position. I used the same wire that is used for my Cyberdyne air/fuel ratio gauge and Autometer Phantom EGT gauge. The most important part is that it has a fuse installed inline.
- The blue and white wires are connected to the corresponding colored wires to the solenoid.
- There is an additional harness on the control unit, but it is not used.
Tuning
One very important lesson that I learned is that the switch on the rear of the controller unit needs to be set to "AC", and not "WG". If it is left on "WG", it will result in severe overboosting, and the boost will not be controlled at all, no matter what gain and/or ratio are chosen.
This page will be updated once I get the gain and ratio settings (and the corresponding boost levels which is now easier since I am able to doelectronic boost logging.)
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